Small Block Chev 283, 307, 327, 350, 400 V8 engines with carburettors.

The small block chev engine really livens up with our series of Hot Rod Cams. Chevy’s will rev up quick and these cams help bring out their real potential as a street engine.

KustomBitz Hot Rod Cams will give your Chevy that rumpity, rump, tough sounding idle that will turn heads, shake the ground and vibrate window panes. Perfect for 60’s muscle cars, Hot Rods and Full bodied sedans, makes them real exciting to drive with little fuss and not having to rev them too hard to feel the power.

Our lobe profile is kind to your valve train because of it’s modest lift and duration figures. However both Stage 1 & Stage 2 cams start producing torque at 1500rpm and produce exciting torque around the 2500 - 3300rpm depending on your other engine mods.

Stage 1 cam’s torque band is strongest from 1500rpm to 4200rpm and can be used with stock stall converters for automatic transmissions.
Stage 2 cam’s torque band is strongest from 1800rpm to 4800rpm, and we recommend using 1800-2200rpm stall converter in most cases, and higher compression and free flowing headers and exhaust.

Both cams work well with a manual transmission and have reasonable vacuum to operate your power brakes.

Forget using the stock EFI computer, the OEM fuel delivery settings will just not cut it. You would need a programmable unit to run EFI.

Because of the small block’s long narrow runners they can run a fairly lopey cam and still have good manifold vacuum, especially when you are over 350 cubic inch and can be more forgiving for novice tuners, so if you are running a street small block in the lower cubic inch size engines then try and stick to the manifolds with ports that are not too big, unless you are prepared to run a stall converter and work on the tune up.

Final drive diff ratios
As a rule of thumb if you are running 2.73:1, 2.9:1, 3.0:1 or 3.25:1 diff gears and an auto with a standard converter then go for a Stage 1 Hot Rod Cam. If you are going to run an 1800rpm hi-stall converter with the tall gears you could step up to the Stage 2 cam for an even loppier idle however in the mid range power it my feel a little sluggish if you are not in the right gear when accelerating, unless you go for the 3.25:1 diff ratio. However the 350 is a little more forgiving because of those extra cubic inches and your diff ratio become less important.

Stage 2 cams work real well with final drive ratios of 3.5:1 and 3.7:1 gearing and with these gears you could even get away with a stock stall torque converter if you are a good engine tuner to dial in your carbie and spark timing. However an 1800-2200rpm stall converter is more forgiving to novice engine tuners and makes the car more docile at lower speeds, however stamp on the throttle and it will really light up your day. . An absolute tyre fryer with low gears and a stally converter behind a 350 or 400 cubic inch small block.

Going any higher with a stall converter in a regular driver is a bit pointless with a stage two cam, or going lower to a 4.11:1 gears, because you will be not be operating it in its optimum rpm range, so if this is the set up you want to run then you will need one of our Street and Strip cams instead.

If you want a street screamer then you need one of our Street and Strip grinds.